raspberry rhubarb pie.

raspberry rhubarb pie.

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Oh, rhubarb. You ubiquitous late spring presence, you vegetable of desserts. I can never resist you when I see you at the farmer’s market, all brightly colored and stalky and tempting. I’ve done rhubarb pie before on this ‘blog, but I was thinking it might be delicious to do something slightly different than the standard combination of strawberry and rhubarb. Don’t get me wrong; I adore strawberry rhubarb pie, but decided to mix raspberries with my rhubarb instead, just to mix things up a bit. I know, it’s crazy, but everything turned out all right in the end, I promise. Won’t you come along for the ride?

crusty times

raspberry blackberry rhubarb pie filling

We had plans that weekend to go to Tanveer and Kelly’s place for a dinner party, so I did the crust in the morning. I started in on my go-to flaky pie crust recipe (adapted from Tartine), with some of the delicious pastured cultured butter I’ve been so enamored with lately (furnished to us by the wonderful folks over at Organic Valley). I pulsed the butter with some flour, added water and salt, and bam! Into the fridge with the whole lot. After the crust had cooled and firmed up sufficiently, it was time to do the filling. I chopped up the rhubarb, mixed them with the raspberries, and then added some sugar, cinnamon, egg, honey and lemon juice (to bring out the flavor of the fruit).

Then it was rolling time, which always makes me a little fretful; I’ve never quite developed the technique (or strength) to roll out the dough quickly and efficiently enough to stop the fat from warming up and starting to melt by the time it’s in shape to go in the tin. But I did my best, coaxing the dough into shape with the rolling pin and scooping it, gently, from work surface to pie tin. I let the bottom crust cool in the refrigerator for a few minutes while I reheated the oven. When the crust was ready to go, I dumped the filling in and rolled out the dough for the top crust, again getting myself a little anxious over the rolling and transferring. I ended up accidentally poking a hole in the top of the crust and having to patch things together with a slurry, but it ended up being okay, if not entirely aesthetically perfect.

And then baking time finally came to pass. After coating the top crust with an egg wash, I slid the pan into the oven and waited while the smell of gooey, baking fruit filled our tiny apartment. And eventually, magically, the conglomeration of dough and fruit became a pie. It turned out marvelously, golden brown and fragrant and shiny and crusty. When it had cooled off a bit, we wrapped it up for travelling and headed to the party.

roof time, pie time.

raspberry rhubarb pie

In case you’re wondering, it’s actually quite difficult to transport a pie-laden tin on foot from one end of Greenpoint to the other. Kenan and I had to switch off pie-holding duty several times during our travels, but eventually we made it to our destination, sweaty and ready for food and good company. And after we’d had some lovely dinner and waited for dessert time to happen, we bit into the pie. And oh, my goodness, gosh wow. Flaky crust on the outside, sweet and tangy and refreshing on the inside, gooey and sticky but not too rich. I was, needless to say, quite happy with my efforts. And folks at the party seemed to like it, too; it disappeared in fairly short order. And then we sat around on the roof some more, digesting and letting the air finally cool off around us, which was really quite a lovely fashion in which to finish off a summer day.

raspberry-blackberry rhubarb pie!

raspberry rhubarb pie

get a recipe and eat pie in the sunshine, after the jump

lemon-poppy seed cake with raspberry-cherry glaze

lemon-poppy seed cake with raspberry-cherry glaze

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I know, seriously, it’s been way too long. I would like to be able to say that I’ve had some pressing thing that forced me to leave this blog by the wayside for so long, like a forgotten favorite toy, but I don’t. I mean, I’ve been busy, sorta, but not busy enough to warrant such an extended absence. I am sorry, blog. You will not be forgotten again.

And now, back to our regularly scheduled programming: delicious treats.

When I was about 12 years old, I had what might have been deemed an unhealthy obsession with the mini lemon-poppy seed bundt cakes at one of our local bakeries. I would eat them whenever I could, relishing especially the crispy, buttery bottom sides of the little things. They were moist and delicate and wonderful, but I think the thing I was most enamored with was the shape: the treats had the form of full-sized bundt cakes, molding and all, but were about the size of a standard muffin. I forgot about my erstwhile gustatory preoccupation at some point while I was growing up and getting old and boring and less willing to eat cake for breakfast. But thankfully, a little while ago I happened upon a recipe for lemon cake in Maida Heatter’s Book of Great Desserts. For some reason, although the recipe made no mention of poppy seeds, I was reminded of my childhood obsession, and thought it would be fun to tweak Maida’s probably already stellar recipe and perhaps approximate the glory of the mini bundt cakes of my youth. The 12-year-old in me squealed with joy and anticipation.

lemon poppy strategizing

bundt pan

I ended up making this cake several times, for several different reasons. The first time I tried it out, I wasn’t even planning to put it in this here ‘blog; my brother, a devoted and opinionated foodie, was coming over for an impromptu dinner party and I wanted to have something sweet to impress him. So, using the recipe as a base, I got started. I added an extra egg yolk to the recipe, for more richness and creaminess. I also used a bit of brown sugar, to increase the sassiness (yes) of the sugar and add a bit of caramely goodness.

And then, of course, there were the poppy seeds. Because this dessert adventure had been a last-minute decision, I had to work with what I had in my kitchen. I pulled a little bag of poppy seeds out of my cupboard, eyed them hopefully, and poured them into a measuring cup. They came out to somewhat less than a half a cup. I had no idea what would be the ideal amount of poppy seeds, so I shrugged and threw them into the batter. Another change came with the lemon content: the recipe calls for lemon zest, which is all well and good, but I only had lemon juice, so I just squeezed a tablespoon into the batter and called it a day.

Once I had mixed everything together, I poured it into my bundt pan and plopped it in the oven. It came out wonderfully: a really crispy, dark-brown crust with a nice springy lightness to the crumb. I was quite excited.

But I still felt that the cake needed something: Maida’s book suggests a nice light lemon glaze, but I had a whole bunch of jam in the fridge, so I opted to make a bright, fruity, tangy jam glaze instead. I threw some preserves in a saucepan with a tiny bit of extra sugar and a squeeze of lemon juice, heated everything up and cooked it down until it was nice and syrupy, and poured the glaze over the cake slices just before serving. Délicieux!

lemon poppy adventuretime

battertime

The cake turned out so well, in fact, that I decided to make it again, to perfect the proportions in the recipe and also so Kenan could get some pictures in. And it turned out even better. I make the cake with a small amount of wheat flour, changed the ratio of brown to white sugar, and added some more poppy seeds. I also used different jams for the glaze, throwing together a combination of whatever jam remains we had in the fridge. It turned out even better this time, a nicely-coordinated series of tastes and textures. I was happy enough with the results that I was able to muster up the courage to bring it to Champion to give our favorite baristas a taste. And they liked it! Like, enough to ask me if I wanted to sell the cake the following weekend.

I was overjoyed at the prospect of selling my baked treats at one of my favorite eateries in all of Brooklyn, and nervous that I was going to mess something up and disappoint everyone. I also kinda felt like I was deceiving someone, somehow. I mean, how else to explain that I could just give a piece of cake to a lady in a coffee shop and have her suddenly want to buy a whole cake from me and sell it in her store? But I pulled it together, in the end: on a Friday night, I made the cake again, keeping the same proportions as before. I made the glaze and stuck it in a travel container, and the folks at Champion put the glaze in individual serving cups so customers could slather it in themselves. And people seemed to like it, I think.

And that’s my whole story. Neat, huh?

lemon-poppy seed cake with raspberry-cherry glaze.

counter top champion

recipes to cure your woes, just round the corner

buttermilk-wheat cake with caramel glaze.

buttermilk-wheat cake with caramel glaze.

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I’m pretty much a sucker for any treat that involves the words “caramel” or “caramelized.” I can’t help myself. Whether it’s chocolate with caramel, or caramelized onions, or coconut-caramel cookies, or anything topped with caramel sauce, I’m fairly certain to be on board. So when I was sifting through the annals of Lottie and Doof and came across this favorite cake of his, my culinary interest was immediately piqued.

And, as luck would have it, as I was pondering my next foray into the world of cake, I had on hand a fair bit – a ton, actually – of whole-wheat pastry flour that was sent to me by the good folks at the Missouri Grain Project. The Project is a worker-owned collective that mills grains grown at the Terra Bella Farm, also in Missouri. Although Lottie and Doof’s recipe doesn’t call for any type of wheat flour, I thought a mixture of this nice, flavorful pastry flour and regular ol’ cake flour would create a nice, nutty-but-still-fluffy finished product. So how about you come along for the ride, eh?

mixing fixing futzing etc.

cakely

Simple things are so heartening, which is definitely part of the allure of this particular concoction: a fluffy buttermilk cake topped with a simple caramel sauce. No layers, no fussy frosting, no surprises or twists. The lack of complications was also inuring to my benefit as Kenan and I were due at a small gathering in the evening, and I had decided to undertake this little escapade at the last minute. So I started in the late afternoon, measuring and laying out ingredients: flour, bakings powder and soda (granted, that is certainly not correct, but I like it), butter, sugar, salt, eggs, and buttermilk. I sifted together the dry ingredients, creamed the butter and sugar, added the eggs, and then mixed in the buttermilk and the dry ingredients. The only adjustments I made to the recipe were to use a bit of brown sugar in addition to white, as well as the aforementioned partial flour substitution. When everything was mixed together and ready to rumble, I poured the batter into a cake pan and popped it in the oven. And it baked up really, really beautifully. The wheat flour seemed to impede the rising a tiny bit, but the cake still turned out quite fluffy and soft, and had turned a gorgeous, nut-brown color. I was very excited to eat it, but, like a good bringer of treats, I kept my sweet tooth under control and refrained from tasting until I had brought the cake to the party.*

Once my cake friend had cooled off, I started on the glaze, which is also deliciously simple. I heated some sugar, cream and a pinch of salt in a saucepan until they reached candy temperature and poured the sauce over the cake. By the time we had walked over to our friends’ apartment, the glaze was set and the cake was looking shiny and sticky and very tempting.

* Okay, actually, I may have “accidentally” shaved a tiny, teensy bit off the top just to make sure it wasn’t, like, poisoned or something, but you can keep a secret, right?

oh my goodness.

cakely

Waiting for cake-eating time was excruciating. First we chatted and caught up with our friends, and then we ate dinner, and then there was the obligatory holding period in which everyone (or at least me) was wanting to eat cake but not quite ready to own up to it. But then, finally, it was time for dessert. And, I have to say, holy handbaskets, this cake was really, really good. Seriously. I absolutely understand why the dude over at Lottie and Doof says he doesn’t share it with anyone: it’s fluffy and chewy and not too sweet and, most importantly in my opinion, there’s just something that feels cozy and heartening about it. I was also really pleased that I had decided to use some wheat flour; it added just enough of character and body to spice things up a bit, taste-wise. So thank you, Lottie and Doof, for alerting the world to the existence of such cakely deliciousness.

And you can partake in the aforesaid deliciousness, too, you know, just below the fold.

fantastic buttermilk cake with caramel glaze

cakely

recipes and funtimes, after the jump

fig newtons.

fig newtons.

fig newtons. fig newtons. fig newtons. fig newtons. fig newtons. fig newtons. fig newtons. fig newtons. fig newtons. fig newtons. fig newtons. fig newtons. fig newtons. fig newtons. fig newtons. fig newtons. fig newtons.

When I was a kid, I loved me some fig newtons. I remember them being moist and chewy and just the right size for sneaking out of the kitchen. Plus, they had actual fruit (or rather, “fruit”) in them, so they didn’t quite count as “real” cookies. Having eaten a few of these guys as an adult, however, I’ve been disappointed by the chalky, gristly quality of the dough and the over-sweetness of the filling. So I was really excited when I came across an organic, planet-friendly, small-bakery type of fig newton at Urban Rustic a few weekends ago. And they were really quite good; they were flavorful and chewy and not nearly as gristly as the packaged kind. But they were still a little bland, and I started thinking to myself, “you know what? I can probably make these cookies myself, and make them better.” So I set out to do exactly that.

figgy dough.

kenan with cookie

I happened to have a recipe in one of my cookbooks for “fig newton dough,” but the book, curiously enough, did not include a recipe for filling. Taking a closer look informed me that this cookie (which I was beginning to suspect was intended as more of a stand-alone cookie than a foil for fig filling) had figs and raisins and oats in the dough. But stranger things have happened to my tummy, so I decided to go along with it, more or less: I’d make this crazy fig-filled dough and then fill it with more figs and other jam and fruit things, and hopefully end up with something at least approximating the cookies I knew and loved. But, you know, actually good, rather than just good in memory.

Having hashed all of this over, I schlepped over to the Garden to buy some fig foodstuffs. I picked up figs, raisins, apricots, fig jam, and some wild local honey for the filling. Then I scurried back home, excited for this new little adventure. I laid out all the ingredients and got ready to bake.

When I started to combine the ingredients as listed in the recipe, however, I thought that the proportions seemed a bit off. The recipe noted equal amounts of flour, figs and raisins, but it seemed to me that that particular combination would make for a dough that would be really tricky to roll out. In fact, even though the recipe mentioned something about filling at the end of the instructions, I became fairly convinced that the recipe as written would turn out a dough that wasn’t intended to be filled or rolled around anything. But I also thought it would be crazy to make a fig newton without the newton (in my mind, the “newton” is the filling part, for some reason) – why, that would give you nothing more than an overladen oatmeal cookie, which was not what I was in the market to bake.

In order to remedy this chunky situation, I cut back significantly on the amount of figs and raisins called for and added a bit more flour because the dough was seriously wet and sticky and seemed like it would be a nightmare to roll out as prepared. I also used about two-thirds cake flour (which is what is called for in the recipe) and one-third wholegrain hot cereal (uncooked, of course) (the one I used was made by Bob’s Red Mill, but any whole-grain flour or cereal will do). I changed up the flour because I thought it would add a nice bit of nuttiness, and also because I wasn’t really concerned about the cookies being puffy or flaky, which is generally why one would use cake flour. Anyhow, then I cut the dough in half, shaped each half into a little disc, flattened them out, and let ‘em hang out in the fridge for a little while to cool their heels and firm up.

figgy filling and falderal.

making soldiers

And then it was dough time. I didn’t really have a clear idea of what to do with the filling, so I just winged it: I chopped up some more dried figs and put them in a bowl. Then I added some chopped dried apricots, a few raisins, and a bit of honey. And with that simple little admixture, my figgy guys were ready to be assembled. I got the dough out of the fridge, dusted my work surface with flour, and rolled one of the dough discs into a wide circle.

And then… I was a bit stumped as to how best to proceed. I’m sure you know what fig newtons look like: they’re little squares of dough filled with a smooth, figgy substance, with two straight and cleanly demarcated edges. But my dough and filling were both really chunky, and certainly weren’t going to lend themselves easily to being forced into tight little packages. So I improvised. I spread some filling over the surface of the dough, leaving a border around the edge, and rolled everything up. This turned out not to work so very well; as you can imagine, rolling the whole thing up into one log made for a really, really thick cookie. So I had to chop them up pretty good, and by the time I had gotten them into manageable chunks, they were a far cry from picturesque (Kenan and I destroyed the visual evidence of this first, aesthetically disastrous attempt). But they were still gonna taste good, so I plopped them on my baking sheet and threw ‘em in the oven. And despite their ugliness, they baked up really well: the outside took on a nice dark golden brown color and looked really appealing. The only problem was that they didn’t quite have enough filling; I wanted to get some real chewy fig taste along with the crunch of the cookie part.

Luckily, I still had more dough to use, so for the next tray, I thought better of my filling and rolling system. This time, after I had rolled the dough out into a circle, I cut it into wide strips and spread a good bit of filling on each of the strips and then rolled the long edges of the strips up so they looked like little mini-logs. Then I sliced them up and they looked much, much neater and prettier than their visually challenged cousins.

And after those guys were cooked and cooled and ready, we gave them a taste. And they were super duper. Really. Chewy and tasty and crispy and crunchy and nutty and fruity. They bore just enough resemblance (as far as I’m concerned) to actual fig newtons, but they had their own character, too. They had texture and spiciness and oomph. In short, I liked them.

So maybe you should give ‘em a shot, eh?

figtastic!

fig newtons

recipes and figgy times, after the jump

apple strudel.

apple strudel.

apple strudel. apple strudel. apple strudel. apple strudel. apple strudel. apple strudel. apple strudel. apple strudel. apple strudel. apple strudel. apple strudel. apple strudel. apple strudel. apple strudel. apple strudel.

It’s a trip to Germany this week at afternoons in tablespoons. Last weekend, Kenan and I planned to head over to Chris and Jodi’s place to catch up on Lost and do some hanging out. Chris is part German, spent some time in Berlin last year and seems to have a general delight for all things Deutschland. So when I was scheming about things to make for the gathering, I immediately decided strudel would be sufficiently delicious and German-themed. I’d never tried it before, so I thought it’d be fun to give it a whirl.

Ja, voll (yea, verily).

chopping apples

And as luck would have it, my new, hefty, exciting baking tome had a recipe for strudel. I was most intrigued by the dough: strudel is made not like traditional pastry, for which one prepares a dough that has a very high fat to lean ratio and needs to be turned one or two times before use, but rather with a very elastic paste that is rolled out and then stretched until it reaches almost the breaking point. Apples are not exactly in season, but I decided to go with an apple strudel anyway, because none of the other fillings suggested in the book looked alluring, and also because those were the only passable fruits I could find at our local grocery store.

I started on Saturday morning, stopping at the farmer’s market and grocery store to get fruit and other sundries. Back home, I got cooking. I placed some flour, water and salt in my new standing mixer and kneaded the dough for 10 minutes, until it got super stretchy and supple and sticky. Then I coated it with some oil, wrapped it up in plastic and set it aside to rest. Resting the dough allows the gluten structure to relax; if the dough is not allowed to rest, it can overstress the gluten and cause the dough to tear and become tough. After a few hours of resting, the dough was ready to roll out.

I laid a linen cloth out on my work surface and dusted it heavily with flour. The fabric facilitates the stretching process and also allows the filled dough to be easily rolled up and transferred to the baking pan. At any rate, I then placed my little doughy friend in the center of the cloth and rolled it out. Because the dough is so elastic, it’s incredibly easy to work with as long as you keep dusting the work surface and the top of the dough with flour to prevent sticking. After it was rolled out, I coated the rolled dough with some butter, covered it, and allowed it to rest for another 20 minutes or so.

In the meantime, I prepared the ingredients for the filling. I heated up the oven and then peeled, cored and chopped a mixture apples (granny smiths, jonagolds and pippins) and stirred them together with some sugar and spices. Then I weighed out some bread crumbs and mixed them with some melted butter. After that, it was time to give the dough its final stretching and fill the strudel. I enlisted Kenan to help me with the stretching process, as it’s a bit of a two-person job. We stood on either side of the work table and gently slid our hands to the middle of the dough, lifting and gently pulling the dough toward ourselves. We got a few little tears, which I chalked up to our being first-time strudel stretchers. I was a bit worried about the tears, but I was able to patch the holes up fairly satisfactorily with some of the dough from the sides. Then I coated the dough with a bit more butter, sprinkled the whole lot with the bread crumb mixture, and strewed the apples at the edge. Then it was time to roll everything up, which was a bit of a harrowing task.

You see, when the dough is stretched out, it’s about 21 inches long and 15 inches wide; not exactly petite. But I rolled up my sleeves and went at it, using the towel to fold the dough over the apples and quickly (or rather, as quickly as possible) roll everything up into an at least somewhat picturesque little package. I was then faced with another problem: getting the sizable strudel log (ahem) onto my tiny, Brooklyn kitchen-sized baking pan. The dough, as I mentioned, is already stretched to the breaking point and fairly difficult to handle without tearing, which further complicated an already delicate task. I ended up dealing with the situation by gently nudging and cajoling the strudel onto the pan with a combination of shaking and prodding and then bending the dough into a sort of crescent shape once the bulk of it was safely on the pan. Then I cut some steam vents along the top of the strudel and coated the lot with some more butter. Then it was into the oven with my little German guy.

Baking and Pastry says the strudel should take about 45 minutes to bake, but for whatever reason, my oven took forever with this thing. But eventually, well past the 75 minute mark, the thing looked done: ever-so-slightly golden brown and crackly around the edges and top. I took it out of the oven and wrapped it up for its journey over the Chris and Jodi’s place.

lost and treats.

wall of apples

Over at Chris and Jodi’s place, we ordered some food and settled into a couple episodes of Lost and some growlers full of delicious beer. After we had done a small modicum of digesting, we tucked into the strudel. The crust was incredibly difficult to cut through and necessitated an inordinate amount of sawing. Taste-wise, it was rather bland: the texture was nice, but it didn’t have the buttery tenderness that I look for in a good pastry. The filling was good, but not terribly inspiring or amazing. All in all, I think there are some improvements I could make to this guy, but it’s a pretty good starting place nonetheless.

Ja!

apple strudel

strudel

get your precise prussian recipe below the fold.